En poursuivant votre navigation sur ce site, vous acceptez l'utilisation de cookies. Ces derniers assurent le bon fonctionnement de nos services. En savoir plus.


Jeudi 2 Avril - 17ème jour - Hampi

P1060650.JPG(If you want the first note, click HERE - I write in english for Alex and Elly // please native english speakers correct the grammar/Syntax/Vocabularies in the comments if you read that).

I woke up very early this morning around 7 am, because I knew that visiting Hampi after noon would be very hard, according to the high temperatures. And I wanted to have a chance to catch Alex and Elly at their hostels as well. I am now in Tokyo, writing this note, we are May 25th, 1.30 am, and I still remember this morning as if it was yesterday. Plenitude, well-being, the silence…

As I love Paris by night between 3 and 5 am, during the week, when the city is suddenly out of activity, I loved this wonderful morning seing the ricefield in front of me, appreciating the fresh morning air, and no one already awoken. I would love to be in Hampi again precisely at this time now. India… Seeing India from Tokyo is amazing, and I hardly can believe I was there less than two months ago… I miss India in fact. This country. Once you know it, you can not forget it. Either you like, either you don’t like it, but going to India make your regard on life change for sure.

So after a cold shower (even if it was very early, was already hot), I moved on to the boat, directly to Elly & Alex’s hostel. Was there approximately around 8.30 am, but the man told me they were already gone (in fact they were not but I will know it later). So I tried P1060673.JPGto find somewhere in order to recharge my sim card, but of course there was nothing in the only main street of Hampi. After having turning around for a while and impossible to call Alex neither Elly, I decided that I will go visit on my own until their calls. By chance a riskshaw is approaching me and asking me if I want to visit. My first reaction is to say no (I thought I could do it by walk, in fact that would have been a mistake according to the temperatures), then he tells me :

“- You’r the girl from yesterday …

- Mmm ?

- I drove you up from Hospet Station. Three girls, you were with me on the front…”

P1060767.JPGLooking at him closely I do recognize him, so amazing. As he has recognized me, I decided to go with him . Good Choice, he was very nice, quite honest though. His name is Raju, he was the same age like us (approximately) has already children. If you’re going to Hospet you can call him on : 09 48 016 7337 (his father). Tell him you had his phone number from a french/asian girl and you can take him for all day and driving you from Hospet to Hampi and the return as well. He is honest, even if you will have to negotiate of course a little bit according to the local prices, but honest.

As I has the temple’s map (you can by the little guide they sell for 15 ruppies or 10 I don’t remember, it is very useful for the map), we following the map. Hampi is full of incredible old temples. I loved that. I can not describe every temples I saw, especially now that it is already quite far, but the elephant stable temple was a great souvenir and the Vitthala Temple. Those millions of details of architecture, ornements. A real pleasure. Around 10 am it was already very very hot, so the private rickshaw was really a great idea.

Now in my souvenirs remains a sort of anachronical impression... Climate, environment, all those temples. Time stops in Hampi, and this is probably why I fall in love with this marvelous place. I loved taking my time in each place to see the numerous details, taking them thinking of Lita, or my other friends… For example, any times I saw an elephant made me think of Nicaw. Well… Hampi is magic.




Around 11.30 am, suddenly a short instant message from Alex, telling me they were at the mango tree having breakfast. So I decided to make a pause in my trip, asked Raju to go up there, where we could stop for an hour then we will finish the trip. I think he was quite happy in fact to have this “break” time. Meeting was at 1.30 pm. I found Alex and Elly again. So nice to see them. They did some meditations on the morning in fact, but were still in bed when I came to the hostel. Alex felt better this day, but not completely. We agreed to go all three to visit the end of the temple and then go all three again back to Hospet. I remembered part of one of our discussion talking about destinies. Of course in India one could say this is because of India’s environment make you start thinking like that. But I don’t think so. I had always believed in some unexplained force somewhere... As Alex said, it can not be totally a chance if we met up. My entirely life is made of meetings and probably my life would not be the same if I had not meet up some persons at one’s time being.




Elly met Minh in Vietnam few days ago, because I put them in contact. How fun is life isn’t ? I might see Elly again in Vietnam, and I met Margot who is Alex’s friend when I was in Beijing…. Life is a sum of lot or circles… But Alex would probably talk better than me about Karmas.

I have a lucky Karma, and I keep on thinking it every days now. And I can’t understand why all those good things happens to me, but they are, so I must recognize that somewhere there is a lucky star beyond my head, and I am so grateful to the heaven for this (even if I have no religion). Dark and bright. I knew both. But remembering this movie A Star is born,(1954) when the grandmother tells the young actress that as she has a life more excited than most lives, she must accept that she will perhaps have more suffers than most of people. I dont' say at all that I have suffered, but I just say that you rarely have only the bright side.




After a good lunch/breakfast again we were on the road all three to end the temple trip. We accorded ourselves to say that we were lazy, and seeing some people walking under the sun made us suffering for them. Finishing visiting the surrounding temples (in fact to visit all the area you would need at least 2 more days), we decided – lazy girls – to go back to our favorite place to have a last drink before going back to Hospet.

This is real vacations... loosing time. This is probably one of my beloved occupation once finishing to visit the “touristic” things, is to watch the activity of my environment. It is very relaxing to see the people in their daily life while you are doing nothing. Very often when I am in Paris, I envy the tourists or students who can just spend some entire afternoons at the terrace of the cafés. Having time to read a book, or just taking a nap. Luxury.




So we stayed approximately one hour and a half before Raju came back to pick us up and drive us to Hospet. The Bus Station for the girls who were going to Goa after, and the train station for me to come back to Bungalore before going to Kochi. The weather of the end of the day was perfect and on our rickshaw a great liberty sensation... The luminosity was awesome. And now I am very far from those disorganised streets in Tokyo. Funny.


P1070017 [800x600].JPG


Arriving in Hospet, I left the girls, hoping to meet Elly in Vietnam perhaps, or Alex in Phily, anyway, we will see one another one day... Then I tried to find a shop to fulfill my phone card... and the big surprise is that when – for example – you buy a phone card in Delhi, you can not fulfill it in the South ! You have to buy another sim card, another number... So I called Baldir, to ask him to fulfill my phone card again, promising that Ludal or Patrice will give hime back the money. (200 ruppies). He’s so nice, that he is doing that for me. So helpfull. It is amazing.


P1070020 [800x600].JPG


Raju left me at the train station and I paid him the day (girls in fact we were right he asked for a little bit more as we were 3, but do not worry it was ok, with the money you gave me), and promised to send him my “old” phone when I will not need it again, because he wasn't able to buy one. I am one hour in advance so I just sat somewhere, finishing my books, until there was an electricity cutdown that made me go inside the train station again. I met there a couple from Holland who were doing a 4 month trip as well in India.


P1070035 [800x600].JPG


Since I have beginning my trip I meet a lot of travelers (specially in India) who are making a tour, so at the end, it seems quite “normal” to travel for a such long time between us.

Familiar to the train, after my first trip, I got up in my car. I had a bed close to the windows this time. Very soon I fall asleep and woke up only arriving in Bungalore around 6 am in the morning. Just having time to go back with a rickshaw (this time I have the plan) to Antoine et Linda’s appartment, taking breakfast with them before leaving at 8 am to the airport to take my plane to Kochi. Tonio has organised my taxi, so everything was great ! The short breakfast with them was really nice. I left some more luggages only took the necessary to go to my other trip : Kochi and Munnar....

21:24 Publié dans Carnet de Bord, Inde | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0) | Tags : hampi


Navigateurs qui buggent ici.....

Pour une raison obscure, Microsoft (ah pardon j'ai ma réponse ;)) Explorer (mais pas tous ça dépend des versions), fait bugger mon site au sens où si jamais vous utilisez ce navigateur, dès qu'une de mes notes contient une photo, vous ne pouvez plus la voir... je viens de réaliser que du coup vous avez droit à des notes blanches, des titres sans textes, vous voyez bien à droite qu'il y a des commentaires postés mais vous n'avez pas accès aux notes... Capture d'écran de mon ami Nicaw. Envois de mails au service technique de hautetfort pour qu'ils m'expliquent ce mystère. Du coup en attendant je vous conseille de passer sur Mozilla, Safari, Opéra... (en plus c'est tellement mieux que microsoft)... et puis peut être qu'un jour où Microsoft ne buggera pas vous pourrait ré-utiliser Explorer.... Mais en fait non si vous passez sur d'autres navigateurs vous ne reviendrez jamais sur explorer ;))). Voilà pour la note blog du jour..

20:18 Publié dans Blog | Lien permanent | Commentaires (1)


Des cuisines et des hommes… (Tokyo - 21/05/09 – 1h28)



«  La langoureuse Asie et la brûlante Afrique,
Tout un monde lointain, absent, presque défunt,
Vit dans tes profondeurs, forêt aromatique !
Comme d'autres esprits voguent sur la musique,
Le mien, ô mon amour ! nage sur ton parfum » - Baudelaire, la Chevelure

Depuis mon arrivée au Japon, j’ai le bonheur et la chance de faire un voyage culturel qui éveille aussi le sens de mes papilles… Je ne parle pas uniquement des saveurs locales, mais de balades fort agréables, comme celle du rayonnant chef, Lionel Beccat, du restaurant  Michel Troisgros où nous avons eu la chance - avec Fab O. - d’avoir eu un menu « surprise » où du début à la fin la partition s’est harmonieusement accordée.

Le caractère du chef se retrouve : faire voyager son public dans des univers contrastés, où l’entrée donne envie de déguster la suite, stabilisation du rythme qui ralentit pour devenir plus langoureux moins saisissable avec quelques saveurs surprenantes, et la coda qui laisse un goût relevé au curry très agréable qui encore aujourd’hui imprègne mes souvenirs. Lionel Beccat, maîtrise sa partition, indiscutablement, ce qui fait de lui un chef encore prometteur puisqu’il alimente sans cesse sa cuisine grâce à ses expériences, ses lectures et son amour pour les voyages imaginaires ou réels. Une vision du monde qui s'affirme au fil du temps...

Plus je découvre l’univers des grands cuisiniers, plus je comprends toute l’Arpège évoquée par Alain. Cuisine que j’admire profondément, car à son niveau, c’est une œuvre d’art permanente offerte avec une générosité si désarmante pour ceux qui le côtoient.  Chez Alain, j'apprends, et j'apprendrai toujours. Son humanité se retrouve dans chacune de ses assiettes. Je n’avais pas entendu toutes les notes de sa carte avant aujourd’hui où chaque saveur soudainement me revient à l’esprit… Les voyages intérieurs sont éternels.

« J'irai là-bas où l'arbre et l'homme, pleins de sève,
Se pâment longuement sous l'ardeur des climats ; » Baudelaire, la Chevelure

Les artistes culinaires, tout comme les réalisateurs, metteurs en scène ou les grands chefs d’orchestre font la différence certes par leurs exigences professionnelles, mais surtout et avant tout lorsqu’ils parviennent à exprimer leurs sentiments et partager leurs univers à travers leurs créations qu’ils exposent chaque jour à un public renouvelé…

« La Nature est un temple où de vivants piliers
Laissent parfois sortir de confuses paroles ; » Baudelaire, la Chevelure

Rigueur et créativité, caractère et douceur, volonté et sensualité, constance et surprise… L’enchaînement des plats racontent souvent une histoire, chaque fois différente si on se laisse guider par les volontés du Chef. Le peintre choisit ses couleurs, ses huiles, acryliques ou pastels, ses supports. Le Chef choisit ses légumes, ses épices, ses viandes, poissons, sauces… Les mets d’un certain niveau provoquent des émotions, il faut accepter de s’embarquer en voyage jusqu’à l’atterrissage… Arrêter de comprendre ou décortiquer les plats, simplement… ressentir.

Le Chef est un artiste qui guide ses troupes chanter les sérénades et déclamer ses vers à chaque ouverture de porte. Mais l’erreur est interdite, session de rattrapage impossible. L’exigence fait de cet Art une philosophie, une manière de vivre. J’aime…

"Les parfums, les couleurs et les sons se répondent." - Baudelaire, Correspondances

J’aime échanger/écouter aussi les autres chefs rencontrés à Tokyo que ça soit celui du Lugdunum ou du café-crêperie Le Bretagne. J’aime apprendre auprès du maître d’hôtel de l’équipe de Lionel, Damien M. avec son accent si agréable qui chaque fois me rappelle combien j’aime aussi Toulouse… J’aime la discrétion du nouveau chef du Pergolèse – Hervé Garnier - qui, rêveur, s’interroge encore sur quelle partition jouer en finissant de déguster son yakitori à côté de moi. J’aime lorsqu’un chef japonais ne comprenant absolument rien à ce que A.G et moi lui racontions décidede nous faire découvrir ses choix., suite à notre demande. Heureux de voir que nous apprécions ce qu'il nous sert. venant à chaque fois vérifier si cela nous convient. J’aime écouter les discussions autour des pâtisseries qui ne doivent détonner de la symphonie…

Il n’y a pas d’opposition entre les cuisines « de quartier » et les cuisines « étoilées », car au final c’est comme si nous voulions opposer des types musicaux entre eux… Chacune a son charme, les plaisirs sont différents… Vous aimez écouter un certain type de musique au quotidien, mais vous vibrerez en écoutant l’opéra des Contes d’Hoffman ou le Requiem de Mozart… Et les grands chefs sont ceux qui au-delà des compétences, vous ouvrent les portes de leurs cœurs, de leurs vécus, de leurs rêves et d’une certaine manière de ressentir le monde… J’aime.

"II est doux, à travers les brumes, de voir naître
L'étoile dans l'azur, la lampe à la fenêtre,
Les fleuves de charbon monter au firmament
Et la lune verser son pâle enchantement.
Je verrai les printemps, les étés, les automnes ;
Et quand viendra l'hiver aux neiges monotones,
Je fermerai partout portières et volets
Pour bâtir dans la nuit mes féeriques palais.
Alors je rêverai des horizons bleuâtres, Des jardins, des jets d'eau pleurant dans les albatres.

Des baisers, des oiseaux chantant soir et matin,
Et tout ce que l'Idylle a de plus enfantin.
L'Emeute, tempêtant vainement à ma vitre,
Ne fera pas lever mon front de mon pupitre ;
Car je serai plongé dans cette volupté
D'évoquer le Printemps avec ma volonté,
De tirer un soleil de mon cœur, et de faire
De mes pensers brûlants une tiède atmosphère."  Baudelaire, Paysages.